SX200 Restoration Project
- There are no markings on front fenders.
- There were lots of dings, dents, bends, and rust spots on my old fender.
- I could have spent hours trying to get it perfect but I bought a reproduction fender for $100 from Scooter Originali which I think was a good choice especially given my metal working skills.
Headsets are hard to find and expensive to buy. You must check the screw holes on all pieces to make sure they are not stripped out before purchase or painting. This is not impossible to fix but is something you can check easily when buying a replacement. My headset was in good condition and only needed a simple fix. Also, you have to make sure that your headset is a chrome-ring style or non-chrome-ring style. While doing the restoration of my SX200 I came across an issue noted in the Sticky's manual. The top of my headset did not fit well with the bottom and the gaps that were left would possibly let in rain water, look unsightly, and was generally a detail of poor quality. Anyone with a eye for Lambrettas would see this and it just looks bad. Sticky's manual notes this is the proper headset for later SX200's but the serial number on my bike indicates it's an early model. It would seem my headset had been replaced at some point, especially since it had the wrong speedometer. My headset was the 'gap' style which was not something I wanted. I did a little horse-trading and found a top that was correct and got rid of the gap. Take a look at the Stickys book to see what this looks like.
After being disappointed for a while I started comparing different headset pieces and found there is a difference with the casting numbers. While the part number is always the same, the casting number, manufacturer logo and the final dimensions are not.
Mind the gap, yuck.
The Spare Parts Catalog lists the following information about headset tops:
|Part Number - Model||Part Number - Model|
|19.76.1020 - 125s,150s,150sx, tv175, and SX200
19.96.1020 - 125li & 150li
|19.76.1010 - 150 Special & TV 175
19.76.1030 - 125s,150s,150sx, tv175, and SX200
19.96.1010 - 125li & 150li
19.96.1030 - 125li & 150li
The Difference In Casting Numbers:
Some parts include a casting number to indicate differences in later changes. This number can be seen below the actual part number and should look something like the picture below:
An example of the Hexagonal FP logo. The 1971/1 casting number is barely visible.
- There should be an F.P. logo of some sort, either an oval F.P. logo, the letters FP in a hexagon, or it should say FPB with a bar underneath it.
- The actual casting number starts with the letter A or P and is then followed by the number, for example: P.1241
- I have noted on other castings there is a number 2 just below casting number in the same font and size.
The Good, the Bad, and the wrong casting numbers:
After asking all my friends to check their headset part numbers I saw the difference in casting numbers with the top piece.
FPB (bar logo)
A.1972 (casting number)
F.P. (oval logo)
P.1241 (casting number)
Hexagonal FP logo
v 1971/1 (casting number)
Hexagonal FP logo
v 1971/1 (casting number)
The Bad: Note the oval FP logo.
While I don't know every logo and casting number and haven't tried every combination of part number and casting number, it's safe to say that you should take a look at the parts you're buying and make sure they fit your bike.
- The upper part of the headset has a large Innocenti "I" logo on left side and the part number (19.76.1002) above the FPB Underline logo with A-1972 directly below it on the right side.
- The lower part of the headset has the part number on the left (19.76.1030) with the hexagonal FP logo directly below it and an odd A 1971/1 in a very small font with the /1 being larger that the previous numbers. There is a medium sized Innocenti "I" logo on the right.
- The top-left screw hole for the headligh rim was stripped out.
- I was able to fill the hole with JB weld and tap a new hole in the headset.
Front Hub - Disc Brake
Original front disc brake hubs are rare & expensive. You might be able to find one but it's going to cost you. There are reproductions on the market from but a lot of them are of poor craftsmanship which is very dangerous. If you want to buy a reproduction check with your local shop or scooter club to before you make any purchases.
- The left half has a large © logo in the center area between the windows.
- The right half had a few markings. There is a large © logo on the upper left area. There is the word BREVETTATO in all-caps on the right side.
- No problems.
- Nothing to fix!
Horncasting & Grill
Original SX horncastings are hard to find and expensive of you do find them. They are somewhat "matched" meaning that mixed parts don't always go together very well. To make matters worse there are also a lot of cheap reproduction grills on the market which don't fit very well. I went through several replacements before I found one that fit well enough.
- The rear of the grill has the part number (19.75.0083) on the left with a small Innocenti "I" logo below it. The right side features the FPB Bar logo with A-1962 directly below it.
- The rear of the horn casting has a medium Innocenti "I" logo above the badge area. Below the badge area you should see the part number (19.75.0086) and about an inch below the part number you should see the FPB bar logo with A-1961 directly below the FPB logo.
- Horncasting didn't match grill very well.
- I gently filed the grill to fit the horncasting.
Footboards are a pain in the a$$. They have so many weird bends, are prone to cracking, are always messed up from someone dropping the bike, and come in 2 different types. There are the SerIII type and the GP type. On top of it they are VERY hard to find in restoration condition.
- Footboards don't have any factory markings on them.
- There were many small dents, along the enge, rust pits, and were generally beaten up.
- I eventually found some locally and on eBay. You can't always buy 2 at a time so you have to look for singles.
Cylinder shrouds are prone to dents from rocks and come in a few different styles depending on the size of your motor and the year it was manufactured. Make sure to pre-fit yours as they have to fit with the fan shroud and can sometimes be a pain. Also, they might have rubber 'bumpers' inside them to help stop them from hitting the cylinder. You don't have to replace these but it's a nice touch, it's easy, and I found replacement rubber in the plumbing department at my local hardware store (I think I got lucky). I think this might be my favorite part of the bike..they just look cool.
- Cylinder shrouds don't have any factory markings on them.
- There was a tear in the metal where it connected to the motor.
- There were plenty of these available so I just bought a new one.
Fan shrouds are prone to dents from rocks or in a rare case a rouge flywheel but are generally available at a reasonable price. Possibly my 2nd favorite part of the bike. Cool design!
- Fan shrouds don't have any factory markings on them.
- There were a few small dents along the bottom.
- I genetly tapped out a few minor dents.
Gas Tank & Gas Tank Door & Gas Tank Straps
For some reason my gas tank had a dent in it. How that happened I'll never know but fixing it from the inside was going to be a pain in the neck and I generally hate bondo (cuz I'm stuck up like that) so I bought a new one as they are generally available. Check every tank you have or buy for rust. If rusty you can have them cleaned quickly and it's not very expensive. Gas tanks also come in a few varieties which are discussed in the Sticky's book.
- There are no markings on any of these pieces.
- The new tank had some rust on the inside.
- The old gas tank straps were bent and deformed.
- I had the new gas tank acid dipped along with the frame and forks!
- The acid dipping place will also seal the tank for a small fee. I had them seal it as well.
- I bought new gas tank straps which were cheap.
Air ScoopThis piece goes on the frame and barely sees the light of day. Besides that it's covered with the seat so it doesn't get much weark and tear. I've heard of people removing the inside cross member so that more air can enter the air box.
- The top of the air scoop has INNOCENTI-SC 21 along the front edge. Below that is the IGM number (IGM - 2105 S) with a smallish Innocenti "I" logoo below it.
- On the inside of the scoop between the front cross member and the rear cross member you can see a part number (19.91.5019) with an oval F.P logo directly below that. You can also see a large 2 below the FP logo.
- Strip it, paint it, mount it, done.
Air BoxAir boxes are easy to find and are usually not expensive but they are prone to rust on the inside as all the cool wet air is processed in this area. Check them for rust before paint. I had mine acid dipped to make sure I got into all the nooks and crannies.
- You can find the word INNOCENTI S221 with the part number (IGM-2105 S) directly below it on the slanted area just above the air filter entrance.
- There was a good amount of rust on the inside.
- I had the air box acid dipped along with the frame and forks!
Air Filter ManifoldCool piece though pieces like this are exactly why Lambretta went broke.
- On the right side you should see a nice Innocenti "I" logo with the part number (19.91.6018) to the right of it.
- On the left side you should see the letters FR with the numbers 076 below it and a slightly smaller number 2 below that.
- Strip it, paint it, mount it, done.
Glove Box & Glove Box Door
Glove boxes are always dirty on the inside but don't get a lot of wear and tear. Make sure the connector is in place for the tool roll and that the door fits the frame easily.
- Neither part has any markings.
- My glove box door didn't fit well at all.
- This took some massaging to get right. You will have to sit down and pre-fit your door to your frame before paint. I eventually had a friend bend mine correctly.