SX200 Restoration Project
Building Your Bike!
Before I started building the bike I bought a complete hardware set from Casa which was awesome. Everytime I put a part on the bike it came with brand new shiny screws, nuts, and washers in the proper size. You know you're using the right stuff which took a lot of guess work out of the process.
You can start with a lot of pre-assembly work before working on the bike. Fit the rubber boots on your center stand, rear rack, add the handles to your side panels, add the side panel retaining clip to the rear of the frame, glove box lock, glove box bumpers, speedo, and add all the emblems and logos to the leg shields and side panels. Let me tell you, it's a lot easier to do when the parts are off the bike. This is easy stuff and will get you warmed up for the main event.
Next I set up a old table that I covered with an old blanket and started with the frame on the table. Using the restoration guide on the UK Lambretta Club website I started working my way down the list. First the fork tube bearing tracks and protection covers, center stand and splash plate, and on and on. I took my time at each step to make sure I was using the proper hardware and to make sure I wasn't going to chip the fresh paint.
I found it hard not to chip the paint at times. Don't over-tighten your bolts or the paint will crack. This is where you find out how good of a paint job you have.
Make sure you run your cables correctly. Each cable was designed to run a specific distance and if you run them incorrectly they won't fit right and it will affect your controls and brakes. I found a proper cable routing image at Lloyd's Lambretta.
Next, do yourself a big favor and make sure you get nylon lined cables. It makes a huge difference as to how well the cables perform. The nylon lined cables housing are much smoother on the inside and let the metal cables glide effortlessly.
Mounting Emblems and the Glove Box Lock
As I've mentioned before, you should run a small drill bit in and out of the emblem holes by hand before attempting to mount the emblems. The paint is thick and will make the holes smaller, running the drill bit in and out of the holes will wear down the paint and so the holes are the perfect size for the mounting studs on the backs of the emblems. If you don't do this you risk chipping the paint as you push the mounting studs through the holes. Do this process for the legshields, side panels, and glove box door lock.
Once the paint in the holes has been removed you should gently push the emblems into place to make sure they fit correctly. For emblems on the legshields you will have to bend them slightly to match the curve of the legshields. Take your time and eventually the emblems will fit into place perfectly. Next find a piece of leather or rubber and drill a small hole in it. Place the rubber/leather piece over a mounting stud so that the stud pokes through.
You can now gently tap the stud with a ball-peen hammer to deform it into place. Take your time and gently tap the stud a lot of times, don't try to do it with one hit. If you miss you will hit the rubber and save your paint.
Footboards and Legshields
I placed a thick piece of cardboard between the footboards and legshields during the assembly so they wouldn't rub during the assembly process. This allowed me to push the parts together tightly for assembly but once the assembly had been finished I removed the cardboard leaving a nice small gap between the parts so they wouldn't rub when riding.
Another note, the legsields have rubber 'bumpers' inside the fork tube area (you can see it 3 picture above just behind the rear rack). These were there to eliminate rubbing and vibration and were made of the same material used for the cylinder shroud bumpers. I used glue to mount the bumbers.
Also, before mounting the aluminum channels for the floor rubbers make sure they don't have any sharp edges on them. I took a file and knocked off the front and rear edges so they wouldn't dig into the paint.
Horn Casting, Headset & Legshields
Make sure the horn casting or legshields don't rub on the bottom of the headset after assembly as I scratched mine the first time I turned the handlers which was about 10 seconds after I mounted the horncasting. *SAD FACE*